How long to keep wine

The question I get asked most often as a wine writer is how long wine keeps. It’s one of those ‘How long is a piece of string?’ questions: it depends both on the bottle and the drinker. Some people relish mature wines that have acquired complex aromas and flavours. Others would much rather drink wines while their fruit is at its most intense.

In general bottles under £5 are not worth hanging on to for more than a couple of months. Most wines these days are designed for immediate consumption. “We work on the assumption that every bottle people purchase will be drunk that night” says former Somerfield senior wine buyer Angela Mount. “Certainly most will be consumed in the week”

Wines that are traditionally held to benefit from ageing are red wines matured in oak such as red Bordeaux, the theory being they need time for any harsh tannins to soften. But that isn’t invariably the case. Even expensive Bordeaux is made in a fruitier style designed for early drinking. Unless you’re buying the top growths you’d want to drink most within 3 or 4 years.
It also depends how old a wine is when you buy it. Some wines - like Rioja reservas and gran reservas - are aged by the producer before their release so there is little point in hanging on to them for any length of time.

On the other hand full-bodied new world reds like Australian shiraz or Californian Cabernet Sauvignon can benefit from a bit of bottle age. “We regularly sell new world wines that are between 5 and 7 years old” says Martin Lam, chef-owner of Ransome’s Dock in Battersea which has built a considerable reputation for its wine list. “Many wines don’t show all they’ve got to offer in their first flush and have the fruit to last.”

Of course it’s not just red wines that age. “Top white wines from the Rhone, sweet wines and even champagne are all worth keeping” says Bill Baker of vintage specialists Reid Wines near Bristol. “But it’s not worth hanging on to white burgundy for more than 2-3 years. It’s not made to last any more.”

All in all you’re more likely to be disappointed by holding onto a wine too long than by drinking it too quickly. “People don’t pay enough attention to vintages and advice on what should be kept and what should be drunk” says Bill Baker. “If we think a wine is past it we say so.”

Reid Wines is at The Mill, Marsh Lane, Hallatrow, Bristol BS39 6EB, 01761 452 645

This article was first published in BBC Homes & Antiques