Jean-Luc Rabanel is Gault Millau’s surprise choice for Chef of the Year

I’m thrilled to discover that one of my favourite chefs, Jean-Luc Rabanel of L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles, has been awarded 17 points and nominated Chef of the Year in the 2008 Gault Millau guide to be published next week. It’s an astonishing coup for someone who runs a very small restaurant which has only been open for 18 months and has only one Michelin star.

Why the honour? Because his cooking, which is vegetable-based (though not vegetarian), is not only original but reflects the spirit of the times. He uses only organic produce from his own vegetable garden but turns it into the most extraordinary, delicious and inventive food. I ate there again last night and it was totally different from the meal I had there last July, as members of this site may recall.

The only disappointment is the wine list which is neither particularly exciting in its own right nor does justice to his food, but that’s a common problem currently in top restaurants. If you go the best bet, I reckon, would be a dry Provencal rosé.