A trio of new London restaurant openings

Over a period of two days last week I took in three of London’s hottest openings, all coincidentally - or perhaps not so coincidentally - French. After a period when French food has been regarded as a good deal less sexy than Italian, Asian or even modern British it was high time we were reminded of its seductive charms.

First, Texture, the new venture from two of Raymond Blanc’s former lieutenants, Agnar Sverrisson who until recently was head chef at the two Michelin-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and Xavier Rousset who was the head sommelier there. I went the opening party which doesn’t give you much of an idea of the food but enough to spot that the menu owed as much to Scandinavia - and in particular Copenhagen’s Noma - as to France (Sverrisson, as his name suggests, being not French but Icelandic).

The draw is likely to be the fish tasting menu - a first so far as I’m aware - which includes Mediterranean Tuna - smoked, Asian flavours, Scottish Scallops - pan-fried, cauliflower textures, Icelandic cod - pan-roasted, avocado purée, chorizo, coco beans and sauce vierge and a Fisherman’s Infusion and a which sounds a bit scary but is probably something like a soupy stew. Apparently each course can be matched to a different champagne or sparkling wine (there's a champagne list of over 80 cuvées from 25 different champagne houses). Rousset is pretty hot on his food and wine matching so I imagine that will be a fascinating, if pricey option.

The same day I discovered that Angelus had just opened in Lancaster Gate, the result of a long-cherished ambition of sommelier Thierry Thomasin (ex-Le Gavroche and Aubergine) to open his own restaurant. Lovers of art nouveau brasseries will drool at the decor - you could easily be on the Left Bank in Paris.

The food is delicious: I had a wonderful crab cocktail followed a very sophisticated rabbit and foie gras pie - but I was slightly disappointed by the desserts and one of the wine pairings - an all-Carignan Minervois called Rendez-Vous du Soleil which was recommended by the sommelier with the pie. (Not that it wasn’t accurate, simply that it didn’t reflect the depth and range of the quite marvellous wine list and Thomasin’s own skill) Despite a fair-sized front of house team service was also quite stretched. I suspect the kitchen was struggling to keep up with the bookings - I doubt if Thomasin had anticipated this kind of instant success.

Give it time. I predict in three months’ time it will be an impeccably smooth-running operation and also quite impossible to get in. (This is an up and coming area which boasts a branch of Jimmy Choos and celebrity residents such as Tony and Cherie Blair)

Finally La Petite Maison which has already garnered some glowing reviews since its opening a couple of months ago. Tucked away behind Claridges in one of the poshest parts of Mayfair it's a natural habitat for what looked like a clientele of rich businessman and C list celebs ('tous célèbres ici' it says on the door). Although it’s a Provencal restaurant (a branch of the Nice restaurant of the same name) we felt bound to order their signature dish of Roast Blackleg chicken with foie gras as I’m exploring foie gras pairings at the moment (someone has to do it . . . )

It was a fine but predictably rich dish, served with a equally luxuriant gratin dauphinois. This time a Savigny-les-Beaune was the suggested match - again the right style of wine but disappointing in quality. I do wish that restaurants in Britain would list better quality wines by the glass.

What we actually enjoyed most were the marvellous starters which were served tapas-style for sharing, in particular a delicious octopus salad dressed with wonderfully green, grassy olive oil and a dish of grilled aubergines topped with prawns - both well matched with a crisp white Cote de Provence. Sticking to starters I think would be the best way to eat there - it’s the perfect spot for a midday break from shopping in nearby Bond Street.

Texture, 34 Portman Square, London W1H 7BY +44 20 7224 0028
Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London, W2 2SD +44 020 7402 0083
La Petite Maison, 54 Brooks Mews, W1K 4EG +44 20 7495 4774