Why old is gold for autumn entertaining

No, I haven’t completely lost it! I do mean autumn, not spring. This is for the benefit of those subscribers and visitors who come from the southern hemisphere:

Just as spring signals a major shift in ingredients and cooking methods from hearty to light and fresh, so autumn brings a new set of tastes that are richer and warmer than the meals of late summer. Roasts and grills rather than salads and barbecues, bringing rich, sticky caramelised flavours. The earthy flavours of mushrooms and game. The rich, sweet flavours of squashes and pumpkin. Casseroles and stews with their deep winey flavours - all need a slightly different approach with respect to wine matching.

First of all, a welcome return for oaked whites, especially poor old Chardonnay which has had a bit of a tough press in recent years. But Chardonnay is always great as its aficionados will know - in the way that chicken is great or bread is great. It’s just one of the wine world’s staples. This is the time to serve those big buttery Chardonnays that have been gathering a bit of bottle age - excellent with recipes that include pumpkin and butternut squash, sweet red peppers, corn and - would you believe - steak with a béarnaise sauce.

In fact old is gold when it comes to autumn drinking. I know we Brits are famous for hanging on to our bottles for a ridiculous length of time but believe me, it pays off. Dig out those old Barossa Semillons and Marsannes which will have now acquired those astonishing grilled pineapple flavours that are great with a simple plate of country ham. Serve those old Rieslings with a smoked fish platter, an easy starter at any time of year.

Game and mushroom dishes both team beautifully with pinot and syrah/shiraz that has been allowed to develop a few years’ bottle age and whose bright primary fruit flavours have been replaced by softer, subtler ones. I have, to my amazement drunk even quite modest Australian shiraz such as Penfold’s Kalimna Bin 28, seven to eight years on and have been astounded by their freshness. Big wines do need time, especially when they’re being called on to partner - or are even included in - a classic European-style daube or stew.

Mature reds, especially Shiraz, Tempranillo and Italian varietals such as Barbera and Nebbiolo also pair better with cheese than their younger, more tannic counterparts do, especially if you add some dried fruits such as raisins and figs to the plate.

Finally, let’s hear it for stickies - too rich and sweet for summer, it sometimes feels, but given a chance to shine by autumn’s bountiful harvest. Apple pear and plum tarts all show off a classic dessert wine to perfection while caramel and nut-based desserts provide an ideal pairing for a sticky liqueur muscat. I could almost envy you guys . . .