San Francisco and Northern California

publication date: Dec 29, 2006
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Northern California is the epicentre of food and wine pairing so it’s pretty hard to find a restaurant that doesn’t have a crack at it. Here are a few places that I’ve been to or have been recommended to me that you might not know about, together with such obvious places of gastronomic pilgrimage as The French Laundry and Gary Danko.

Do comment below or on the forum about your experience of any of these places - and let me know of others you’ve been to that do a good job of matching food and wine - or other drinks

San Francisco

1550 Hyde Cafe and Wine Bar

Hyde St at Pacific (Nob Hill)
415 775 1550 (after 1pm)
http://home.earthlink.net/~zootster/index.html
Inexpensive but charming wine bar with fresh. seasonal, typically Californian cuisine. You can order a $15 wine pairing with the three course prix fixe menu and there are plenty of wines by the glass.

A 16
2355 Chestnut Street (Marina)
415 771 2216
www.a16sf.com
Hugely hip neighbourhood Italian specialising in the food and wine of Campania in Italy. 40 wines by the glass, wine flights and regular wine dinners.

Bacar
448 Brannan (SoMa)
415 904 4100
www.bacarsf.com
One of two well established wine venues in the city (the other being Eos) owned by wine director Debbie Zachareas and Arnold Eric Wong. Of the 1300 strong winelist 65 are available by the two- and five-ounce pour, by 250ml or 500ml decanter, and in flights and they hold lots of imaginative wine events involving discounted deals on wine

Cav Wine Bar and Kitchen
1666 Market St. (Hayes Valley)
415 437 1770
www.cavwinebar.com
Limited but nicely thought out menu of small ‘bites’ and plates “given a contemporary twist to allow each dish to pair with a broader selection of wines” Many wines are available by the 2.5 oz or 5 oz glass. They also run wine classes and wine tastings

Gary Danko
800 North Point at Hyde Street (Fisherman's Wharf)
415 749 2060
www.garydanko.com
One of San Francisco’s best restaurants offers a sensibly short seasonal tasting menu paired with imaginatively chosen wines - and sakes. Champagne is a speciality - they list bottles from over 100 houses.
Typical matches:
  • Glazed oysters with osetra caviar, salsify and lettuce cream with Ginjo sake, Tokubetsu Junmai, Ama No To, Heaven’s Door, Akita, Japan
  • Horseradish crusted salmon medallions with dilled cucumbers with a 2005 Gruner Veltliner, Domaine Wachau, Terrassen, Smaragd, Wachau, Austria
Michael Mina
Westin St Francis, 335 Powell Street
415 397 9222
www.michaelmina.net
Particularly good selection of wines by the glass available in both ‘taste’ and ‘glass’ size including such stellar bottlings as Tollot-Beaut Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2001. The fixed price menus are innovative too as are the add-on Tableside Classics which include signature dishes such as a caviar cart, lobster pot pie and whole fried chicken for two. There are also tasting menus with accompanying wines devised by top sommelier Rajat Parr.

Rubicon
558 Sacramento Street
415 434 4100
www.sfrubicon.com
Master Sommelier Larry Stone may have moved on but Rubicon is still considered to boast an outstanding list and wine program (even though the website is irritatingly out of date)

Sushi-Ran
107 Caledonia street, Sausalito
415 332 3620
www.sushiran.com
This top end Michelin-starred Japanese fusion restaurant specialises in pairing their dishes with both sake and wine, favouring German riesling, Alsace gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir from Sonoma and Willamette Valley with their raw fish dishes.

Vino Venue
686 Mission Street
415 341 1930
www.vinovenue.net
Vino Venue is an highly original wine bar cum wine shop where you can buy a ‘tasting card’ which you insert into one of the automated wine tasting stations, select a wine and receive a one ounce pour. A great place to try all kinds of great wines says my informant. More feedback please


Northern California

Calistoga

BarVino
Mount View Hotel and Spa, 1457 Lincoln Avenue
707 942 9900
www.bar-vino.com
Recently opened and recommended by a wine industry friend who tells me that BarVino offers an attractive range of ‘tapas-style’ small plates to pair with an eclectic selection of fairly priced wines.

Healdsburg

Cyrus
29 North St (at Healdsburg Ave),
707 433 3311.
www.cyrusrestaurant.com
"If you want to find the next superstar chef, look no further than Douglas Keane” writes the San Francisco Chronicle’s legendary restaurant critic Michael Bauer who awarded it his top rating of four stars. This is exciting food (there’s a champagne and caviar menu) delivered in a very customer-friendly way. You choose the number of courses you want for a fixed price (at the time of writing 3 courses for $68, 4 for $80 and 5 for $92 then choose the number of courses you’d like them to pair for you from three courses at $ 42 to seven at $ 89 .

Dry Creek Kitchen
Hotel Healdsburg
317 Healdsburg Avenue
707 431-0330
www.charliepalmer.com/dry_creek/
Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen might be regarded as just another celebrity chef restaurant but they have made a commitment to the region with an all-Sonoma wine list and have some great wine-related events including an annual ‘Pigs and Pinot’ celebration. They also offer a ‘Sonoma neighbor’ 3 course menu from Monday to Thursday, paired with local wines for a very reasonable $45
Typical pairings
  • Five Spice Perfumed Delicata Squash Soup, Black Truffle Custard, Candied Ginger with Soleil Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Vineyard 2003
  • Pan Roasted Rosie Chicken, with Wild Mushroom Fried Rice, Oregano Jus with Siduri Pinot Noir 2002

Napa

Bounty Hunter
975 1st St
707 255 0622
http://bountyhunterwine.com
“Mark Pope has single-handedly made downtown Napa fun with this great wine bar” says my Napa mole. There are wine flights, 40 wines by the glass and some 400 by the bottle. Food is homey and the beer can chicken not to be missed!

St Helena

Martini House
1245 Spring Street @ Oak,
707 963 2233
www.martinihouse.com
Not, as you might imagine a bar but an atmospheric wine country restaurant jointly owned by one of San Francisco’s leading restaurant designers Pat Kuleto and chef Todd Humphries (ex Campton Place). Humphries’ speciality is wild food especially mushrooms. He offers a choice of tasting menus matched with wines. They also have an impressive stock of older vintages
Typical pairings:
  • Ragoût of Braised Morels, Sweet Peas, Onion Petals and Thyme with AntHill Farms Sangiovese ‘Windsor Oaks Vineyard' Chalk hill, California, 2004
  • Pan Roasted Maitake,Creamed Brentwood Sweet Corn, Sunflower Sprouts and Toasted Sunflower Seeds, Mushroom Tea with Bonny Doon Vineyard ‘Le Cigare Volant' Red Wine, California, 2003
Meadowood Napa Valley
900 Meadowood Lane
800 458 8080
www.meadowood.com
The Restaurant at Meadowood-just re-opened with a new chef and concept. This over-looked gem has one of the Valley’s most extensive all-Napa lists. Wine pairings are available for each course and the restaurant also offers a nightly seven-course Chef's Menu along with artisan cheeses and desserts.

Rutherford

La Toque
1140 Rutherford Cross Road
707 963 9770
www.latoque.com
Chef Ken Franks has been offering wine pairings for years at his popular Napa Valley restaurant but his approach is a particularly good one. There’s a wine pairing menu of suggested wines to choose from for each dish of his tasting menu (at $62 for 4 glasses). They also offer a range of truffle menus each year which are paired with some impressively mature vintages
Typical pairings:
  • 1997 Gevrey Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Dom. Laurent  with 1000 Day Duck and Ricotta Raviolis with Black Truffle
  • 2004 Olivia Brion Pinot Noir, Heron Lake Vineyard, Wild Horse Valley with Baked Delicata Squash with Farro, Pecans, Dried Cranberries and Amontillado Sherry Sauce

Yountville

The French Laundry
6640 Washington Street
707 944 2380
www.frenchlaundry.com
What is there left to say about Thomas Keller’s fabulous French Laundry - except the little known possibility of being able to bring your own wine (as seems to be the case with many wine country restaurants) and a reminder that bookings need to be made two months in advance. Their sommeliers, they say, are ‘trained to anticipate the guests’ needs and recommend classic or adventuresome wine pairings’ As indeed they should in any restaurant of this calibre.


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